Taken by Guddu & Shani 

I really like the unusual combination of gels in this image. There is a combination of green, yellow and orange and it gives the shot a tropical feel to it whilst being quite atmospheric. 

I particularly like the way the short lighting shadows the models face and the smoke adds a soft texture.

BA8.

BA8 start point.

http://www.pdns30.com/

I recently found http://www.pdns30.com/ which is a website that monitors emerging photographers. I think this is great tool to keep informed with what and who is up and coming in the industry. I have found it so useful throughout the project already, I am constantly rechecking the site to see if there is any new photographers.

University Self evaluation form.

Goals.

I think by the end of my time at university I want to have a solid degree in my hand and a portfolio full of striking fashion portraits with endless opportunities available to me. I would love to get work in the industry straight away.

In two years time I would like to have a solid job under my belt that is paying the rent and my savings so that I can eventually afford to take whatever jobs my come my way and still support myself.

In ten years time I'd hope that I would be working in a job where i enjoy every single day. Ideally this would be photographing fashion portraits for big brands like Gucci, but realistically I would also settle for photographing lookbooks and catalogue.

I think in order to achieve all of this, my time management skills need to improve and I need to be less distracted when things go wrong. I need to act fast and effectively or else I will never a successful assistant or photographer. And also, I need to put myself out there and experience the starting points of these things which I am already beginning to do. I am in constant contact with people about shoots to build up my portfolio. I recently had a job interview for a job as a stock photographer, while I did not get the job it was still a great experience for me to learn and grow.
I think a good place to start assisting would be past NUA students or guest lecturers as we have common ground.

End of term skills.

Technical skills-
I have definitely understood the importance of test shooting in this term as it has taught me alot more about lighting and how to use it efficiently.

Communication - 
I think my communication skills are still strong as they are something that I have always had.

Business skills - 
I definitely know more about the industry after completing this project. I know what companies are available to me coming straight out of university. I have alot of potential career routes open to me that I now know about and would feel comfortable apply for.

Time management- 
I think my time management needs improvement. But this is something I will focus on in BA8. It is essential that I do this else I will not have what I need in order to go out into the industry prepared.

Contextual understanding - 
By the end of this project I think I had a better understanding of the context of my own work. Eventually I stuck to an idea and began to apply it to everything in my project like my lighting, my styling choices, my model etc, and eventually everything in my images began to come together. I do however feel as though my project is not yet finished.

Independent learning -
Independent learning is something I have always felt strongly about so I think that this is something I have benefitted from but I do think I am a person who needs constant feedback through this project. I have had 3 tutorials this term and two were based solely around my research report at the tutors insistence. So sadly I only got feedback on my actual project work in the final week while it was too late to change too much. I think in the future if I am unsure of anything I need to just book office hours with tutors and just drop by and be more open about gaining feedback as this aids my independent learning.

Career route progression.

One thing that Ellen Rogers taught me in her lecture at the university is that there is not one single route into a job role. She fell into fashion photography after meeting a stylist who was well connected and wanted to work with her.

So I think its safe to say that there are many different ways one might go about getting a job role in the industry but to be specific -

Assisting - If I were seeking a role in assisting a photographer I would email them and offer my services and then follow up the email a week later with a polite phone call. This is one of the best ways to secure an assisting role as photographers rarely advertise for them.
I would need previous experience in assisting if I were to assist established photographers but this can be gained from assisting less established photographers. I would need to have good communication and memory skills.

Freelance retouching - I would advertise myself as a retoucher and seek out freelance jobs.
Employed retouching - I would seek a job with an agency with a portfolio that was strong.
For both of these roles, photoshop knowledge is key. I'd need to be efficient and stick to deadlines and have good communication skills in order to give my client what they need. At this moment in time there are several companies and agencies taking on retouchers in London such as Twist Recruitment, Success Digital, Touch Digital. There are also many companies that are taking on in house retouchers at the moment such as ASOS, the online clothing brand and Footasylum, a shoe brand.

Freelance photography - I would need to perfect my self promotional package and market myself well in order to shoot enough to pay the bills
Employed photography - I would seek and apply for jobs with agencies and companies.
Both of these jobs can also stem from assisting and building up a client base. Again with these roles I would need communication skills in order to deliver and time management to stick to deadlines.
There are several employed in house photographer jobs being advertised in London at this moment in time. Some of those include photographing stock for Selfridges and Amazon.co.uk

Career route part 2.

Potential areas of practice for myself as a working photographer -

Advertising -
If the opportunity became available to me I would definitely consider advertising photography as a career route for myself. It pays well and gains great exposure with alot of well known brands.

BMB, Mediacom, Imagination are just a few of the agencies I could approach or apply for jobs at.

Editorial -
Becoming an editorial photographer is my ideal career path. I can do this through building up my portfolio and approaching agencies or creating personal work which I can then submit to magazines which will lead to exposure and more work.

Smaller online magazines I could submit my work to are : Glass-book, institute, vogue online. With the intention of then moving up to the printed magazines like Elle and Vogue.

Fashion
Again fashion photography would be an idea scenario for myself. The process would be very similar to that of an editorial photographer.

I already photograph alot of the local catwalks along with london fashion weekend, I could photograph brand catalogues and lookbooks along with fashion editorial.

Fine Art
Fine art photography is not something that interests me personally. I like to create images with the intention of them being actual images rather than art.

Architectural
Architectural photography is also not something that interests me but there is a huge market for it as companies constantly need images of their workplace and production which is used online, on brochures, leaflets etc.

Social
I do participate in social photography but I do not find it creatively fulfilling. I think its a great way to pay the bills if you can earn enough from it but essentially you are only ever accomplished in the city or towns that you live near by.
Weddings, parties, christenings, portraits are just a few of the methods of social photography that I could take part in.

Corporate
Corporate photography pays well. I would consider it if the opportunity presented itself to me.
Naturally this would be presented to me through an agency, direct contact or an advertisement.

Still Life
I would consider product photography as a temporary career route. In the past I have had job interviews for this career path so it is definitely an option for myself.

Potential career routes

Possible career routes open to me -

• An assistant - A supportive role that is essential on a shoot.
• Digital assistant - Working with the computer side of things on a shoot
• Studio Manager - Providing a space for a shoot that involves planning and attention to detail
• Location Scout - Finding locations/times of day for photography shoots.
• Health and Safety operative - Ensuring a space is safe to work in
• Stylist - From choosing outfits work, directing hair/makeup to helping design sets
• Hair/Makeup artist - Paying attention to detail
• Set builder - Constructing the set on which the shoot will be shot
• Retoucher - Correcting/changing images in post production
• Producer - Putting together all the elements that makes a shoot
• Agent  - Selling work and forming connections
• Picture Researcher - Industry knowledge and connections
• Picture Editor - Advanced skills picture researcher
• Art Buyer - Knows what is hot and what is not.
• Art Director - Creative eye, desires astonishment
• Not forgetting an actual photographer.

Career routes that interest me and that are available to me now:

• A photographer.
• An assistant - A supportive role that is essential on a shoot.
• Digital assistant - Working with the computer side of things on a shoot
• Retoucher - Correcting/changing images in post production

I have alot of experience working with clients so naturally being a photographer would be my first choice. Employed or freelance as long as I can support myself. I frequently travel and communicate in person, over the phone and via email to ensure that my clients are getting what they need. Working as a photographer there are alot of great opportunities open to me like meeting new clients through other clients, being asked to assist other photographers, helping out with retouching. It is a little bit like a chain reaction as when you're working in the creative industry there are always options open to you.

In the past when emailing photographers I have always offered my assistance to them. I frequently assist class mates so I do have appropriate experience for becoming an assistant.

With knowledge of photoshop and a Capture One qualification under my belt, becoming a digital assistant or retoucher would be a definite possible option.

The role of becoming an art director would become available to me through an agency - through either applying for an advertised role or working my way up through the industry. I think this option would work for me as while assisting in the past I have always been asked for my feedback while shooting and helped direct shoots along with the editing process.

Potential creative agencies to work with -

http://www.idagency.com/

http://www.rpmltd.com/

and many others that work with big names such as Pepsi, Ford and Nescafe.

While advertising photography is not my forte, it is something that if I qualified for the job I would take on as a career path as it involves alot of portrait photography which is what I enjoy.

The illusionists.

THE ILLUSIONISTS – Opening – First 4 Minutes from Illusionists Documentary on Vimeo.

I recently found this film trailer for The Illusionists which is going to be a film about the manipulation of the westernised world. From manipulation in photography, to praying on the weak to increase sales, I think this film is going to be a really great documentary and insight into marketing and media.

The illusionists website tracks alot of scandalous and controversial photoshop 'fails' in the media which I think will be a great tool for my Research Report.

Client work

I recently shot some more blog photography for Sarah at styleonthecouch.com

We've been working together for just under a year now and I routinely travel to Cambridge to shoot with her. Sadly the day was extremely grey and chilly and the lighting was so dim and flat that my 50mm lens, which I normally use for more light, was beginning to malfunction a bit. As stopping to sort out the focus was eating into our time together, her husband (who is also a photographer) was kind enough to lend me his higher spec 50mm lens, which I completed the 3 hour shoot using. I have to say, you can definitely tell the difference when you are using better quality lenses. Not only is the image quality better, but they're just so much easier to get what you need out of them. Sarah was extremely happy with out come of the image despite the grey dull day which could have potentially ruined the images, we managed to make it work. 

America's Next Top Model.

Quite hilariously, recently I have been watching countless episodes of America's Next Top Model.
Reality tv shows have never interested me in the past but I think what I like most about this show is the photography element to it. I have noted down numerous photographers names to look up and potentially use in my work. Its great to pick up tips for directing models also. I find that watching it is the best of both worlds - I enjoy it and I learn as I watch. While of course it is not as informative as what a documentary on a photographer might be, it is very current and contemporary which is a great influence for my work.

Assisting.

Despite asking for assisting experience around the course, I've had very little luck with responses this term. Finally I got the opportunity to assist for a course mate. I helped with the greeting of the model and makeup artist, collecting, carrying and setting up equipment. I gave my opinions on styling and helped direct the model whilst helping out with reflecting too.

It was an extremely busy morning but it was really great to help out on other shoots.

Portfolio

There are several ways I could go about presenting my portfolio, but there are two companies that I know produce extremely high standard final pieces. 

Plastic Sandwich are a company that make leather bound portfolios. At a starting price of £94 they offer a basic 8x10 book. I have calculated that if I were to get a leather bound book with inner binding, my logo embossed and sleeves at an a4 size it would cost me atleast £260. A3 with all of the above would cost atleast £411.

Sadly Plastic Sandwich are rather limited when it comes to leather colour so if I were to choose this option I would just go with black.

Brewer Cantelmo is a company that offers more range when it comes to creating your portfolio. They have many beautiful but professional looking options for portfolio design. A closing book with a press stud flap and a portfolio with a slip case are my favoured options from Brewer Cantelmo. They have a huge range of leathers and I particularly like their deep purple and navy choices. They also have an 'innovative' range which looks as though the casing is made of metal which I also think is a very interesting choice.

A black leather bound portfolio with 30 sheets and embossed logo would cost atleast $399 with Brewer Cantelmo, so naturally a book slip case would bring that price up to around $600.

At this moment in time I am not 100% set on what I want my portfolio to look like. 

Extra shots!

Here are a couple of extra shots I got from my last project shoot. We shot these while waiting for my SB900 to cool down. My SB900 is becoming a bit of a problem. A common default with it is Nikon created the heat sensor too sensitive, so mine shuts off after 10-20 shots. I've had to buy a replacement one as it is becoming a serious hinderance to the shoot.

Anyhow, these images without the blue gel are still great shots! They don't quite fit my project as they are not portraits and they don't have the colour which is essential in my project but I think I will still use them for personal use.

DIY Backdrop.

My DIY Backdrop.

I used this backdrop for my last project shoot and it looked incredible! It came out so much better than I thought it would!

I just experimented with an old dust sheet that in the past I had used to cover furniture while painting. I had actually forgotten about the huge splotches of paint that were on it, but it worked to my advantage! I bunched the enormous sheet up as small as I could make it and wrested with some rope to tie it down, squished it in the washer and threw in a dye with it.

I did not expect anything special to come out as this was my first experience with machine dyes but it worked really well! And I didn't even have to iron it as the wrinkles added to the acid wash/tye dye effect!

Illness

This past week I have been severely ill with Gastroenteris. I've been bed bound for 5 out of those 7 days and have been unable to eat for 4. I can honestly say it has hindered the progression of my work. I have been unable to think straight due to the constant dehydration so I am roughly a week or two behind in my work. This will knock my end project down by atleast one shoot. I do however have a shoot soon so I am going to have to make it count.

Lecture notes

I really enjoyed yesterdays lecture from Ellen Rogers.
While she seemed a little quiet and unprepared it was still great to hear her answer everyones questions and get a feel of what her journey as a photographer was like.

She mentioned that she basically fell into fashion photography by being approached by a stylist at her degree show. This makes me want to invite as many local and non local artistic professionals to the degree show as possible as you never know who has opportunities available for you.

The genius of Photography

Watch Genius of Photography - 1 in Entertainment  |  View More Free Videos Online at Veoh.com

As part of my Research Report research I have been watching 'The Genius of Photography' series through veoh.com. The series is a 6 part documentary series and its very informative on all aspects of photography. From watching this I have mostly learnt about the historic side of practice as it is not very contemporary but all the information I have learned will help benefit my report.

Unsuccessful correspondence.

I also emailed a few other photographers but has less luck with the responses. I will continue to email photographers that interest me. I am really happy with how much I've learnt about Alex Pragers work all from an email that answered the questions that I needed answering so I think gathering more information on other practitioners will really benefit and inform my work and research report.

Cristian Girotto -

Neil Krug -

Photographic Practitioner Correspondence

I emailed Jason Bell a few questions about his practice. The response I got was quite limited but still useful in my work.

"Was there a turning point in your career in which you became a 'successful' photographer (shooting film posters/vogue)?"

His response was - not really - it has always been more of a slow gradual progression… and of course it depends on how you define “successful” - it’s also about just being able to do the kind of work you want to do.

I asked "What are your views on manipulation and retouching in photography and why?"

I prefer pictures not to look too retouched. But i’m happy to do it when it improves a shot - for instance a lovely landscape that has a lamppost in the way - in the past you couldn’t take that shot and now you can say “well it’s great - I just need to take the lamppost out.” But i don’t like people being too retouched.

Professional practitioner correspondence

I emailed Alex Prager, a cinematic photographer in the US and had an extremely insightful response from her assistant Lia who asked Alex questions on my behalf. She also attached many very helpful published interviews so I could use them in my research.

I think the response I received was very helpful. I can now see clearly what Alex is trying to communicate in her work as I could not quite find the right words before. I find Alex's interest in reality and fiction really interesting. I found it quite startling to learn that she shoots in film and works with a retoucher as I had assumed the images were digitally produced using CGI. I think this makes me view the shots in a more intimate light now as I can see the time and effort that must have gone into shooting, scanning and retouching them.

Current Portraits.

Rankin

This image was created through the use of studio lighting and probably a studio backdrop as the everything looks a little bit too flat to be shot outside with the sky behind. There is a light on either side of the model, the left hand side light has less intensity so that slight shadows are left doen the models nose and neck. 

This shot would have been created with the intention of selling the garments worn in the image or to promote a brand. The shot would come under the genres of advertising and fashion.

I think the shot is relevant to my practice as it is a visual representation of a career path that I would be happy to take.

I think the production behind this image is what would be most relevant to my own current practice. Working with a team of stylists and assistants with a brief in mind. I think there are some strong historical links in this image as the pale shapes made by the models angular arms remind me of the fashion orientated images that Guy Bourdin might have created. The styling of the image is also very 1950's and has a chic housewife feel to the shot.

Pascal Demeester

This shot is shot in a studio with what looks like a single light source to the right of the models face. It looks as though it is angled just above the models head as the shadow beneath her nose is off to one side. The image will have been retouched to the standard of beauty photography. It was probably created for a brand of hair product or makeup. It would be featured in a magazine an editorial series of images or used in the advertising and promoting of the products. I think the lighting in this image is very appropriate to my own practice as despite the fact that the technique is very simple its also quite atmospheric. As I have explored the idea of beauty photography in my project it is also relevant to that aspect of my work too.

The model is very pale and dainty and reminds me of Jean Louis Marie Eugène Durieu's nude photography. This is because, despite the images being created for different purposes the both hold similar tonalities and soft feelings to the images.

Jean Louis Marie Eugène Durieu

Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

This photograph is shot in a studio and lit from above probably using a beauty dish. I imagine there is also a fill light to help fill in some of the shadows under her nose and jaw. This shot will have been created with the intention of advertising for the actress who is modelling and for exposure and sales of the brands of clothing she is wearing. This shot flourishes in advertisement and editorial. This shot is very relevant to my practice as it is the front page of a very well known magazine which is what my preferred career route would involve. The portrait is very striking and shows alot of attitude which is something I have been trying to portray in my own work. I think if I added a gel into the fill light this lighting technique could work for my own work.

Historical Portraits.

Cecil Beaton

I would say this image was shot with a source of natural light as it has very slight shadows under the models jaw line and eyelashes. Its shot on black and white film and probably dodged and burned in the dark room to create the dark black coat and hair. 

This shot would have been used for editorial purposes in a magazine that he worked for at the time like Vogue or Harpers Bazaar. Probably for a social article about the model/actress.

 I think Beaton was very career driven to go from being a socialite to working full time as a Vogue photographer especially when his competition at the time was Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene who were both spectacular fashion photographers working for Vogue. But with that said both of these being fashion photographers, Beaton was better known for his portraiture ensuring that he excelled in this genre and not really being comparable to Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene.

Horst

George Hoyningen-Huene

Cecil Beatons work is very relevant to my own practice as not only was he a fashion portrait photographer like myself, but he was extremely interested in the glamorous transformation that happens between photographing a person and creating a beautiful image. I have been using a quote by Roy Strong in reference to Cecil Beaton as the basis for my BA7 project. The quote is that Beaton presents his 'sitters as their ideal selves and not as they were or could be at their worst'.

I think Beatons work was very contemporary in its time. In a world where photography was just emerging as something that was associated with family and social portraits, Beaton used it as a photographic art form creating brilliant shapes and contrasts and helped move photography towards advertising.

Dorothea Lange

This image by Dorothea Lange was shot on film as documentation for the FSA. Composition wise, the subject is central ensuring she is the focus. The children hiding their faces on either side of her combined with the facial expression help portray a feeling of desperateness.

The shot was created with the intention of documenting the situation and bringing it to the publics attention. The shot received more recognition than Lange ever thought it would.

I think Dorothea's work differed from the work of Walker Evan's, who was also photographing the FSA at the same time in the way that she took a more realistic approach to her photographs. She had little interaction with the subjects and photographed them as they were where as Walker Evans images are very confrontational in the way they are shot dead on with alot of eye contact from the subjects.

Walker Evans.

I think out of the two FSA photographers I definitely prefer Lange's style of image creation in the way that her shots look so natural and untouched. This however does not apply to my area of practice as I prefer to make-up and shots and have control over what I shoot, in some ways, like Walker Evans.

Robert Mapplethorpe

This image is shot with with what looks like a single light source. Possibly a softbox to the right hand side and slightly above him. 

This shot is a self portrait so it was probably used for editorial and fine art purposes such as exhibiting, identification.

Mapplethorpe and Richard Avedon, who was a very successful portrait photographer at the time, had very different styles of portrait photography. Against Avedon's clean cut and very commercial photography, Mapplethorpes images appear moody, thought provoking and actually quite scandalous. This is because the content of Mapplethorpes images are very sexual orientated not only in comparison to Avedon's work but many other successful photographers of the 80's.

Richard Avedon

I think Mapplethorpes style of moody lighting can be of use in my own practice as his images were black and white with startling contrast and intensity which ties in with the bold and powerful feeling I am trying to portray in my own images.

Portrait image analysis

I have analysed the lighting in these portraits by various photographers and broken down the process and elements used in creating these images. I have done this so that I can use this in my future work.

I chose to analyse the Pascal Demeester image as the lighting is bold and powerful which is what I am trying to portray in my project at the moment. I think the analysis of the shot by Anthony Madler will help me in the future when I have cinematic sets to work with as this also interests me as a photographer, and lastly I have analysed the Paolo Roversi shot as it is a very simple but effective lighting technique which will benefit me if I am ever lacking equipment. The Paolo Roversi shot is also beneficial to me as it has made me see that I need to position my models further away from the backdrops to create the kind of out of focus texture I need in my images.

Retouching

As my research report is based around manipulation I thought I would kill two birds with one stone and begin educating myself better with learning how to retouch.
Over the last few years I have kind of just created my own way of doing it which involved clone stamping out blemishes and creating gaussian blur layers to smooth out skin. However I started to notice that it was beginning to look a little amateur.
The above video is one of the ways I have now taught myself to retouch a little bit better. The process is a lot longer but it creates a much better outcome and has taught me that different ways of retouching are appropriate for different genres of photography.
This learning curve has been well needed as I will soon be leaving education and it will benefit me in the future.

Mid-term Skills

Technical skills - 

My lighting needs work, as does my retouching but this will get better as I practice and test shoot throughout the project

Communication - 

I think my communication skills are strong. I am booking models and shooting but I think my focus is a different story. I am easily distracted if something goes wrong in a shoot so I think I need a printed contingency plan for times like that so I have something solid to stick to.

Business skills - 

I think I have good business skills. I am always being approached by people for my services so I think my self promotional package is definitely working.

Time management skills - 

I think my time management could be better. I do get distracted by things quite easily so I need to put myself in a work environment every time I plan to do work. But I do already set aside every wednesday as my day where I catch up with logbook work if I am behind.

Contextual understanding -

My contextual understanding is a little bit all over the place at the moment. I need to grasp onto one idea and just run with it and perfect it.

Independent learning - 

I think independent learning is something that I am good at as its something I enjoy. The only time I can truly concentrate is when I am alone and in silence. I have been test shooting to learn new lighting skills and completing my own personal work which always teaches me new things about working with real life jobs and clients.

Reflection

I am currently 1 month into my project and I think everything is going well. I'm not producing as much work as I should be though. I aimed to shoot at least once a week but so far I am shooting once every two/ two and a half weeks as I am struggling to come up with shoot ideas. I need to produce 10 final images by the end of this project and so far I have 4 or 5 at a push. I am not 100% happy with these images so I am hoping my work improves in the next few shoots I complete. I think in order to combat my photographers block that I get every time I try to be creative I will refer back to my box of images that I keep as inspiration and I will take more trips to the library in order to source more inspiration.

Emerging Practice.

Michele Aboud is a National Portrait Prize 2014 winner with the below image titled 'Stella'. However, I prefer her other photographs to the award winning one. The shot above was photographed in a studio probably with a single beauty dish to one side of the model, a black reflector and a light on the backdrop.

The shot will have been taken with the intention of being published online or in a magazine and for exposure of a clothing/hair/makeup brand.  It could come under many genres such as advertising, editorial or fashion and beauty.

This shot is quite relevant to my own practice as there is a moody intensity to it, wether that be in the colour palette chosen or the lighting or the expression of the model. I think if I was to take anything from this image to use it to inform my own work it would be the lighting as it is quite dramatic.

When I look at this image it reminds me of the clean cut and dramatic contrast of the following image by Irving Penn.

Out of all of the other National Portrait Prize winners Michele stood out to me because her image was the most relatable to me. The other winners were images of people in war zones and young children so as a portrait photographer who specialises in photographing women at the moment I think Michele is a great influence. Her image definitely stands out against the other winners of the competition.

Stella.

Richard Mosse is a Deutsche Borse 2014 prize winner. His Infra series are shot in the Dominican Republic of Congo on discontinued Kodak infrared film. His images were shot for documentary reportage to bring light to the situation in the Dominican Republic of Congo. He has released a very successful book called Infra and is in the process of releasing a documentary film. He is currently being exhibited around London and in other parts of the world. I think when trying to compare Richards image to other work available in the documentary genre, his work is unique. I have never before seen serious documentary images transformed with such beautiful colours before. Infra has been a huge inspiration to me in the last 6 months and will continue to inspire me in the way he uses beautiful colours to juxtaposition terror and sadness.

I think its very interesting how Mosse uses film that is no longer in production to create his images rather than using digital which is much faster. I think it gives his images a much more intimate feel.